Luxury in Transition: Sustainability, Second-Hand Markets, and the Myth of Responsibility
By
Valentina Galperin
Time of reading:
2 minutes
21 Apr 2025
As the luxury industry intensifies its sustainability messaging—investing in campaigns, certifications, and circular initiatives—a critical question arises: are these efforts reshaping consumer behavior, or merely polishing brand image?
Interviews with professionals and consumers alike reveal a dissonance between what the luxury sector promotes and what buyers actually prioritize. Despite the growing visibility of eco-conscious strategies, sustainability remains a secondary concern for many. Interviewees frequently admitted that unless a brand’s reputation was significantly damaged by unethical practices, sustainability would not deter them from making a purchase. This reflects what Robert Williams and Simone Stern Carbone describe in their analysis for Inside Luxury’s Slowdown: price and design still outweigh environmental or social considerations for most buyers.
Leslie Johnsen, an independent consultant in fashion and luxury marketing, offers a critical view: while acknowledging fast fashion’s massive environmental impact, she also calls out the luxury sector’s relentless pursuit of profit.
“If the luxury industry would slow down and be happy with doing beautiful stuff that is high quality instead of trying to make more and more and more money every season, we would be in a better place as a community of people populating this planet,”
she explains. Her comment underscores a recurring paradox: luxury claims to celebrate timelessness and craftsmanship, yet behaves in ways increasingly aligned with mass production and overconsumption.
In contrast, Baron Osuna, Horizons Headquarter Manager at Louis Vuitton, offers a more pragmatic view. He argues that product rotation and constant novelty are essential to maintaining desire: “this is what keeps the brand at the forefront of their interest and their imagination.” Osuna views sustainability as a collective responsibility, emphasizing that both brands and individuals share the burden.
Interestingly, he notes that he is rarely challenged about sustainability by customers—suggesting that even when consumers care about these issues, they often lack the tools or depth of knowledge to hold brands accountable.
But when the conversation shifts to second-hand luxury, the tone changes. Opinions diverge: for some, pre-owned pieces represent a deeper kind of exclusivity—one rooted in individuality and scarcity.
Anastasia Herea articulates this clearly:
"As a smart consumer, you’ll probably opt for something vintage that is actually rare and is going to be even more exclusive to you because you don’t have other people wearing it.”
Second-hand platforms are increasingly seen as a gateway to luxury that aligns with both uniqueness and sustainability.

Inés Villar, International Product Manager Assistant at Carolina Herrera, sees resale as an opportunity, especially for heritage-rich brands like Hermès. She suggests that soft luxury brands could create their own resale platforms to leverage their craftsmanship and support eco-responsibility: “It would reflect that the object is unique… and brands can foster this ecologically sustainable aspect.”
Yet not all share this enthusiasm. Ella Zaoui and Mariana Cohen Imach represent a more traditional viewpoint. For Zaoui, luxury loses its essence when it is not personally selected and purchased in-store. For Cohen Imach, “I don’t like the idea that what I buy has had another story. For me, that is not luxury.”
Their comments reflect a segment of consumers who equate true luxury with personal ownership, untouched provenance, and exclusivity.
Johannes Wilbrenninck, a luxury consultant with a panoramic view of the industry, points to a more adaptive reality. He explains how resale platforms like Vestiaire Collective have pushed brands to reconsider their stance on second-hand markets.
“For years, the brands were like ‘I don’t want to be involved in secondhand,’ but now they’ve realized it’s such a big market.”
Wilbrenninck highlights Gucci’s move into branded resale and the potential of blockchain technology to guarantee authenticity and even generate ongoing revenue from future resales.
In sum, the luxury world is in flux. While some cling to traditional definitions of exclusivity, others embrace new dimensions of ownership, value, and sustainability. Brands now face a dual challenge: to stay relevant while aligning with shifting consumer values—whether those values are truly ethical or merely aspirational. The second-hand market is not just reshaping access to luxury—it is reshaping the meaning of luxury itself.