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The Row’s Silent Revolution

By

Valentina Galperin

Time of reading:

3 minutes

25 Mar 2025


The Row, Collection Femme Été 2025. Photo: The Row.
The Row, Collection Femme Été 2025. Photo: The Row.


Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen founded the American luxury label The Row in 2006 focusing on exceptional fabrics and impeccable details. They chose that name to honor London’s Savile Row, known for its classic tailoring. Despite entering a highly competitive industry dominated by historic maisons, The Row has redefined luxury by rejecting traditional marketing strategies, emphasizing quiet craftsmanship, and positioning itself as an intellectual, understated alternative to mainstream high fashion.


The brand opted for a scarcity-driven strategy. It has only five stores around the world, which embrace the brand’s timeless and minimalist aesthetic. The newest one is in Paris—the world’s fashion capital, located at 1 rue du Mont Thabor, an anonymous street in the first arrondissement. The store is decorated with precious objects from the mid-20th century, big windows covered by blinds designed by Lilou Marquand and design objects from furniture designers like Marcel Coard and Henrik Wouda. This strong appreciation of furniture is reflected in therow.com, where customers can order the pieces they love. Still, the Olsen twins shared in an interview with Vogue that the most important thing is the experience the customer has in their stores, which is why they curate the pieces that go into them very well in order not to overwhelm consumers. In fact, the architecture and decoration of the place might be the first thing people notice. They have four other stores located in London, New York, Los Angeles and the Hamptoms. Each one of these has been carefully designed to relect the ethos of the brand but also of the place. By deliberately limiting access to physical stores, consumers must seek out The Row rather than having the brand pushed upon them.



The Row's Paris store. Photo: The Row.
The Row's Paris store. Photo: The Row.


According to the Lyst index, in the first quarter of 2024—the year of quiet luxury—searches for The Row augmented by 93%, and their iconic Margaux bag which retails between €3,000 and €6,000, was the most sought-after product during the same time, seen on the arms of celebrities such as Kendall Jenner and Zoë Kravitz. However, when customers search for the brand’s Instagram account, @therow (2,6M followers), they will find themselves scrolling mainly through art pieces by modern artists such as Man Ray, Marc Chagall, or Alexander Calder, going against all market expectations. The Row also has a spotify account that releases a new playlist every month. Nonetheless, even though today most brands aim to succeed by using celebrity endorsements, the Olsen twins do the exact opposite: they don’t even have social media accounts and, on the contrary, they tend to show disinterest in all the media noise that surrounds celebrities, a radical departure from industry norms.



Jennifer Lawrence carrying a burgundy Margaux bag. Photo: Gotham
Jennifer Lawrence carrying a burgundy Margaux bag. Photo: Gotham


The Row has also challenged the fact that contemporary fashion relies on publicity. On the contrary, the brand aims to go unnoticed, specializing in silent marketing. People perceive the brand as an enigma, as mystery has become part of its allure. For The Row, exclusivity drives demand, and the absence of marketing piques the consumers' curiosity. The brand does not run aggressive campaigns because true elegance doesn’t need to announce itself. By choosing silence over noise, the brand sells more than just clothing—it sells an ethos centered on design and simplicity.


Now, what sets The Row apart from other fashion luxury brands? It’s clear, that their clothes speak for themselves. The Olsen twins rooted their brand in simplicity, quality, and timeless elegance, still offering statement pieces that are achieved thanks to a deep understanding of the fabrics. The brand is consistent with its neutral color palette, making wardrobe essentials feel unique. All of the pieces in their stores are impeccably designed, with clean lines and great craftsmanship, demonstrating their dedication to perfection. It is a brand for those who would rather invest in fewer but better pieces that stand the test of time. Joe Karban, The Row’s production manager, described their process as

“the art of making clothes as opposed to making everything cookie-cutter.”

However, are its prices justified? The Row's clothing often surpass even heritage luxury brands like Hermès and Chanel in terms of pricing, despite being a relatively young brand. As an example, their Calibi Top in cotton and silk retails for €810,00 and their Helfi sweater in cashmere retails for €3.840,00. The American brand justifies its prices through its commitment with the best quality fabrics and artisanal production. But, is this enough? Eventhough The Row might lack of heritage to support its prices, the brand has been consistent on its impeccable tailoring, rigorous attention to detail and short scale production, resulting in limited availability and maintaining its aura of uniqueness. Through its expensive pieces, The Row, sells an identity—one of quiet, intellectual superiority—rather than a mere item of clothing.



The Row's Helfi sweater in cashmere.
The Row's Helfi sweater in cashmere.


In 2024, the Olsen twins went even further with their idea of exclusivity, and for their fall-winter fashion show, they kindly asked their guests to refrain from sharing any content from their shows—meaning no phones allowed. Alternatively, attendees were given a japanese notebook and a pen. However, the request resulted controversial, mostly on social media. While some people viewed their elecction as sophisticated, others expressed their disagreement with this, like New York Times’ fashion critique, Vanessa Friedman, who stated on X,

“I don’t feel that taking some pictures interferes with my ability to fully consider what I am seeing. And I think I am grown up enough to decide that for myself.”

Moreover, this strategic move excluded many followers of the brand who might never receive an invitation to the show and for whom social media was the way to experience what they where doing. According to Vogue, the guest-eyes only invitation was a clear statement from the brand, ‘The Row does not need to entice consumers’, while for most luxury brands, the media impact is a top priority as it is then reflected in sales.


The fact that The Row is a private company is not a small detail. The family behind Chanel—the Wertheimer brothers, as well as Francoise Bettencourt Meyers, owner of L’Oréal, have invested in the brand, but Ahsley and Mary-Kate Olsen remain the majority shareholders. The company has focused on a sustainable growth with an estimated annual revenue between $250 and $300 million according to the Financial Times, growing consistently around 20 to 30 per cent every year.

“Most of the time we’re saying no to things so we can be more in control. I think if you grow too quickly and feel pressure to push forward, you risk making more mistakes. It’s a family-owned business and we need to do what we feel is right for us. And that’s what we protect,”

Ashley stated. This demonstrates their authority and freedom to remain true to their essence, unlike most of its competitors. The brand has a complete alignment with who they are, and how they live. The Row it’s not simply a brand, but a philosophy, and that is why it is treated with so much respect and care in every decision taken.


Overall, The Row’s rise signals a shift in consumer preferences—one that values craftsmanship, discretion, and cultural capital over mere branding. While it remains to be seen whether if their business model will maintain its success in the long term, for now, The Row has undeniably set new standards in the fashion business, shaping the future of quiet luxury.

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